Showing posts with label basil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label basil. Show all posts

Monday, February 02, 2009

Thai Basil


Basil - Siam Queen (Thai) is a beautiful form of basil that grows about 2 1/2 feet high and around. The scent and taste are different from sweet basil with more licorice flavor. Thai basil is used in all types of Thai cooking as well as other Asian and middle eastern cultures. It has large flowers that form in a cluster as opposed to the long spikes on the other basils. One of the most beautiful and delicious basil varieties.

Thai Basil can grow in areas that get about 4-5 hours of sun per day. This basil is annual like sweet basil so the flowers must be removed occasionally to keep leaf production going. This is a vigorous growing basil and the plants get very large so give it lots of room.

To harvest, cut about a third of the branch from the top, down to where a new set of leaves is beginning to grow.


Special Directions for Short Season Climates

SOWING: Start seeds indoors in flats or peat pots, or sow directly outdoors after danger of frost has passed and weather has warmed. Cover seed with 1/8 inch fine soil.

SPACING: Leave about 12 to 18 inches apart in rows or use in group plantings

THINNING AND TRANSPLANTING: Thin or transplant seedlings 8 to 10 inches apart outdoors when 2 to 3 inches tall after danger of frost has passed and weather has warmed.

GERMINATION: 1 to 2 weeks depending upon soil and weather conditions. Keep soil moderately moist during germination.

Ed's Special Advice

Siam Queen can be grown in the landscape, or on the patio in containers, alone or alongside other herbs. Don't plant Basil outside too early if the weather is cold and wet. It grows best in a sunny location in fairly rich, somewhat moist, well drained soil. Use leaves sparingly at first, more so as plants grow, pinching back shoots to encourage bushiness and discourage flowering. New shoots can be harvested for several months depending upon climate and growing conditions.



African Blue Basil


Ocimum 'Dark Opal' x O. kilimandscharicum hybridized to form Ocimum 'African Blue
A large shrubby form of basil that grows like a weed. The scent and flavor are more clove scented than Sweet Basil but it can be used for cooking. This plant grows to 4' around and can grow in shady areas or in full sun for best flowering. It is very drought tolerant and the beautiful lavender pink flowers attract all kinds of bees to your garden. This basil is perennial but still sensitive to very cold weather. Easy to grow and never needs flowers pinched off because African Blue basil will not go to seed and die. This is a great landscape plant and indispensable in your herb garden for its color and fragrance.

To grow African Blue Basil, you must take cuttings from an existing plant, there are no seeds for this plant. It must get at least 2-3 hours of sunlight a day. It can be grown with filtered light such as under a tree or in a bright window indoors. If you forget to water it for about a month, and it wilts drastically, water it and it will look as good as new.

Prune occasionally for a more bushy form by cutting off the top about a third.

Cultural Information

Height: 2 Feet

Characteristics: Full Sun

Lime Basil

These varieties of Basil are freshly citrus scented and are mild enough for flavoring grilled fish or shrimp salad. Pasta dishes with vegetables and chicken are delicious with the citrus basils. The plants will grow to about 2' tall and around.

To grow Lime Basil, the daytime temperatures must be warm but not too hot (around 80-95 degrees) and it must get at least 3-4 hours of sunlight a day. It can be grown with filtered light all day such as under a tree or in a bright window indoors. If it gets too hot this plant will not grow well although it is a bit more tolerant of heat than Sweet Basil. It is important to keep the soil moist and grow it in a large pot. These basil flowers do not need to be pinched constantly but the plant will produce more leaves if the flowers are removed frequently.

To harvest Lime Basil, cut off the top one third of the branches at the next intersection with more leaves growing. This will allow the new leaves to begin growing and become your next harvest. Never harvest more than one third of any herb plant so that it can recover from the pruning.


Lemon Basil


This is an exciting addition to the world of basil: a basil -- a basil with a lemon/citrus fragrance and flavor which makes it particularly good in vinegar, with fish, in salad dressings & sauces, and in oils. Great in pesto and other standard basil dishes, too. There is no herb more useful than Basil. In a warm, south window, you can grow basil indoors in winter. One packet plants a 25-foot row.

Average Count: 200 Seeds

Plant Type: Annual
When to Sow Outside: In spring, 1 to 2 weeks after average last frost, and when soil is warm
When to Sow Inside: 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting outside.
Seed Depth: 1/4"
Seed Spacing: 1"
Row Spacing: 1'
Days to Emerge: 5-10
Thinning: When 2" tall, thin to 6" to 12" apart.


Genovese Basil


Ocimum basilicum 'Genovese'
Extremely tender, fragrant, extra-large, dark green leaves. An Italian strain, best for pesto. Height 18-24". Start early indoors or outside after all danger of frost. Grows best in full sun. Annual.

How to Grow this Plant:

Characteristics
Cultivar:Genovese
Family:Lamiaceae
Size:Height: 1.5 ft. to 2 ft.
Width: 1 ft. to 1.25 ft.
Plant Category:annuals and biennials, edibles, herbs,
Plant Characteristics:edible flowers, seed start,
Foliage Characteristics:fragrant,
Foliage Color:green,
Flower Characteristics:fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color:pinks, whites,
Tolerances:heat & humidity,
Requirements
Bloomtime Range:Mid Summer to Mid Summer
USDA Hardiness Zone:9 to 11
AHS Heat Zone:1 to 10
Light Range:Sun to Full Sun
pH Range:5.5 to 7
Soil Range:Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range:Normal to Moist

Plant Care



Fertilizing
How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.

Light
Conditions : Full Sun

Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering
Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Planting
How-tos : Preparing Garden Beds

Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.

A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-tos : Planting and Removing Annuals

When planting annuals, begin by preparing the soil. Rototill rotted compost, soil conditioner, pulverized bark, or even builders sand into the existing soil and rake it smooth. Annuals grow quickly, so space them as recommended on plant tags. Remove plants from their containers or packs gently, being sure to keep as much soil as you can around the root ball. If the rootball is tight, loosen it a bit by gently separating white, matted roots with your fingers or a pocket knife. Plant at the same depth they were in the containers. Gently fill in around the plants, providing support but not cutting off air to the roots. Water the plants well.

Through the season, be sure to fertilize for optimal performance. Take special care to cut back or completely remove any diseased plants, as soon as you see there is a problem. At the end of the season, be sure to remove all plants and their root balls. Rake the bed well to prepare it for the next season's planting.

How-tos : Pinching and Thinning Perennials

Once you plant a perennial, it does not mean that you will enjoy years of maintenance-free gardening. Perennials need to be cared for just like any other plant. One thing that distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to be thinned out occasionally or they will loose vigor.

As perennials establish, it is important to prune them back and thin them out occasionally. This will prevent them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and also will increase air circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.

Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead your plant; that is, to remove spent flowers before they form seed. This will prevent your plants from seeding all over the garden and will conserve the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.

As perennials mature, they may form a dense root mass that eventually leads to a less vigorous plant. It is advisable to occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. By dividing the root system, you can make new plants to plant in another area of the garden or give away. Also root pruning will stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall. Do a little homework; some perennials do have a preference.

How-tos : Preparing Containers

Containers are excellent when used as an ornamental feature, a planting option when there is little or no soil to plant in, or for plants that require a soil type not found in the garden or when soil drainage in the garden is inferior. If growing more than one plant in a container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen, broken clay pot pieces(crock) or a paper coffee filter placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. The potting soil you select should be an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or soil-less medias) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. If water runs off soil upon initial wetting, this is an indicator that your soil may not be as good as you think.

Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted, to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line when project is complete. Water well.

Problems
Pest : Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.

Pest : Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes - spring & fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Leaf Spots

Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.